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♥♥♥♥ EMO QUOTES ♥♥♥♥
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Thursday, July 22, 2010
TLE 52 BASIC ELECTRONICS
This is a simulation of a simple DC power supply based on a full-wave rectifier.
Use the left slider to adjust the AC line voltage and the right slider to adjust the DC current drawn from the power supply. You can also change the filter capacitance and the transformer turns ratio. Just click on the value with the mouse pointer and edit like any text field.
The transformer steps the line voltage up or down by the "turns ratio", which can be changed. One of the rectifier diodes conducts during the positive half-cycle and the other diode conducts during the negative half-cycle, allowing the filter capacitor to charge during both half-cycles. The load current slightly discharges the filter capacitor between adjacent cycles. The resulting voltage fluctuation (ripple) is one-half what it is with a half-wave rectifier
This is a simulation of a simple DC power supply based on a full-wave rectifier.
Use the left slider to adjust the AC line voltage and the right slider to adjust the DC current drawn from the power supply. You can also change the filter capacitance and the transformer turns ratio. Just click on the value with the mouse pointer and edit like any text field.
Friday, July 9, 2010
TLE-20 Architectural Drafting
Isometric drawing
A pictorial representation of an object in which all three dimensions are drawn at full scale rather than foreshortening them to the true projection. An isometric drawing looks like an isometric projection but its all lines parallel to the three major axes are measurable.
Here are the examples of an Isometric Drawing:
A pictorial representation of an object in which all three dimensions are drawn at full scale rather than foreshortening them to the true projection. An isometric drawing looks like an isometric projection but its all lines parallel to the three major axes are measurable.
Here are the examples of an Isometric Drawing:
TLE-50 Grapics Science and Arts
Bookbinding is the process of physically assembling a book from a number of folded or unfolded sheets of paper or other material. It usually involves attaching covers to the resulting text-block.
Process of Book Binding
Preparing the Pages
Putting the Pages Together
Oversewing
End Papers
Edge Trimming
Rounding
Backing
Headbands
Mull
Cutting The Material
Case Making
Goldstamping
Pasting and Pressing
DOCUMENTATION
Process of Book Binding
Preparing the Pages
Putting the Pages Together
Oversewing
End Papers
Edge Trimming
Rounding
Backing
Headbands
Mull
Cutting The Material
Case Making
Goldstamping
Pasting and Pressing
DOCUMENTATION
TLE-20 Agriculture
Bokashi
Is composed of organic materials derived from plant and animal matter that has been decomposed largely through aerobic decomposition. The process of composting is simple and practiced by individuals in their homes, farmers on their land, and industrially by industries and cities.
Compost can be rich in nutrients. It is used in gardens, landscaping, horticulture, and agriculture. The compost itself is beneficial for the land in many ways, including as a soil conditioner, a fertilizer , addition of vital humus or humic acids, and as a natural pesticide for soil. In ecosystems, compost is useful for erosion control, land and stream reclamation, wetland construction, and as landfill cover.
TLE-60 Basic Carpentry and Plumbing
A mortise and tenon joint is the method of joining timber by working a solid rectangular projection in the one piece and cutting a corresponding cavity to receive it in the adjoining piece. The projection is called the tenon, and the cavity the mortise. Joints of this type are secured in various ways. Small wedges, wooden dowels, metal dowel pins, glue and paint are frequently used, and prior to the introduction of glue we have examples of Egyptian furniture in which the mortise and tenon joints were united by a composition of cheese.
Barefaced Tenons- illustrates the joint in its simplest form and shows a tenon having only one shoulder. This is called a barefaced tenon, and it will be noticed that the portion which carries the mortise is thicker than the rail on which the tenon is cut. The joint is therefore level (or flush as it is called) on one side only, and it should never be used at the corner of a frame. It is a useful interior joint for framing that has to be covered on the back side with matchboarding, and allows the work to finish level at the back when the boarding has been applied.
Stub or Stump Tenon -The illustration shows a tenon as used in the interior of a frame. The tenon is not allowed to run through the stile, and unslightliness on the edge is thus avoided. This type of tenon is often used at the corner of a frame, and it then requires to be haunched. A good workshop method of gauging the depth of the mortise for a stub tenon is shown in Fig. 129; a piece of gummed stamp paper is stuck on the side of the mortise chisel, indicating the desired depth of the mortise. This greatly facilitates the work, as it is not necessary to be constantly measuring.
A Haunched Tenon as used at the end of a door frame is shown at -In this case it will be seen that the width of the tenon is reduced, so that sufficient timber will be left at the end of the stile to resist the pressure of the tenon when the joint is driven together. The short portion (A) which is left on the tenon is called the haunch, and the cavity it engages is termed the haunching. The haunch and haunching prevent the two pieces of timber lipping, or becoming uneven on the face side, as would be the result if it were cut away entirely up to the shoulder.
The type of tenon and haunch used when the stile or upright rail is grooved to receive a panel. In this and similar cases the haunch is made the same width and the same depth as the groove; the groove therefore acts as the haunching. An application of this joint is shown in the top rail of the door frame,
This type of joint is also used to connect the rail to the leg of an ordinary
Long and Short Shouldered Joint.— shows a haunched mortise and tenon joint having a long and short shoulder. This is a fairly common joint in framed partitions for offices, framing for greenhouses, tool sheds, etc., and is a frequent source of annoyance to the amateur. It is necessary to use this joint when both the stiles and uprights are rebated, and it calls for accurate marking out and great care in the making.
Barefaced Tenons- illustrates the joint in its simplest form and shows a tenon having only one shoulder. This is called a barefaced tenon, and it will be noticed that the portion which carries the mortise is thicker than the rail on which the tenon is cut. The joint is therefore level (or flush as it is called) on one side only, and it should never be used at the corner of a frame. It is a useful interior joint for framing that has to be covered on the back side with matchboarding, and allows the work to finish level at the back when the boarding has been applied.
Stub or Stump Tenon -The illustration shows a tenon as used in the interior of a frame. The tenon is not allowed to run through the stile, and unslightliness on the edge is thus avoided. This type of tenon is often used at the corner of a frame, and it then requires to be haunched. A good workshop method of gauging the depth of the mortise for a stub tenon is shown in Fig. 129; a piece of gummed stamp paper is stuck on the side of the mortise chisel, indicating the desired depth of the mortise. This greatly facilitates the work, as it is not necessary to be constantly measuring.
A Haunched Tenon as used at the end of a door frame is shown at -In this case it will be seen that the width of the tenon is reduced, so that sufficient timber will be left at the end of the stile to resist the pressure of the tenon when the joint is driven together. The short portion (A) which is left on the tenon is called the haunch, and the cavity it engages is termed the haunching. The haunch and haunching prevent the two pieces of timber lipping, or becoming uneven on the face side, as would be the result if it were cut away entirely up to the shoulder.
The type of tenon and haunch used when the stile or upright rail is grooved to receive a panel. In this and similar cases the haunch is made the same width and the same depth as the groove; the groove therefore acts as the haunching. An application of this joint is shown in the top rail of the door frame,
This type of joint is also used to connect the rail to the leg of an ordinary
Long and Short Shouldered Joint.— shows a haunched mortise and tenon joint having a long and short shoulder. This is a fairly common joint in framed partitions for offices, framing for greenhouses, tool sheds, etc., and is a frequent source of annoyance to the amateur. It is necessary to use this joint when both the stiles and uprights are rebated, and it calls for accurate marking out and great care in the making.
TLE-40 Clothing and Grooming
The Hemming Stitch
The raw edges of material would ravel unless turned and hemmed. The turning is called a hem. It is held with a temporary stitch called basting, and then with the hemming stitch which remains. If the edges were not hemmed, the material would ravel away or look very untidy.
How is the hemming stitch made?
1. Turn hem of desired width. For the towels, one-fourth inch will be about right when finished. There are two turns because one would ravel. Turn towards the worker. First, turn one-eighth inch to wrong side of material. Second, turn one-fourth inch. Turn and pinch to hold until basted.
2. Baste. Use one-fourth inch stitches. No. 8 needle is a good size for this work, and basting thread can be used for this temporary stitch. Be sure to wear a thimble on the middle finger of the right hand. Little Alice Allen says she never will learn to use a thimble, but she will if she keeps on trying. The picture (Fig. 12) shows the even basting stitch with needle in position. Baste on the edge of the hem. Begin with a knot, and end with two tiny stitches placed one on top of the other to hold until hemmed. Remember basting is a temporary stitch.
The basting stitch.
3. Hem the edge with the hemming stitch. Look at the pictures (Figs. 13-16) and then follow carefully the directions. Hold the cloth slanting over the fingers of the left hand, with thumb on top (Fig. 13). Begin without a knot. Put the needle up through edge of hem and allow one inch of end of thread to lie under the hem as you pull thread through (Fig. 14). This end will be worked over and held securely. Now you are ready for the stitch. Point the needle which is in your right hand towards the left shoulder. The point of the needle is passed first through the cloth under the edge of the hem, with a tiny stitch which shows on the right side. The needle, at the same time, catches the edge of the basted hem. This makes a tiny slanting stitch on the right side, so: /. The next stitch is taken about one-sixteenth of an inch from the first, in exactly the same way. As the thread carries from one stitch to the next, it makes a slanting line on the wrong, or hem, side but in the opposite direction from the stitch which shows on the right side. It slants like this
The part marked 1 shows on the right side of the cloth; and 2 on the wrong, where the hem is turned (Fig. 15). When the end of hem is reached, fasten with two or three tiny stitches. If the thread breaks, ravel out a few stitches and let the old end of thread lie under the hem. The new thread can then be started as at the beginning by putting needle in the hole of last stitch. There will be two ends under the hem to work over. The picture (Fig. 16) shows how to join a new thread. Find out how many places the hemming stitch can be used. Try it at home on something before next lesson.
When this stitch has been well learned, it will be possible for the Girls' Sewing League to make many things.
The raw edges of material would ravel unless turned and hemmed. The turning is called a hem. It is held with a temporary stitch called basting, and then with the hemming stitch which remains. If the edges were not hemmed, the material would ravel away or look very untidy.
How is the hemming stitch made?
1. Turn hem of desired width. For the towels, one-fourth inch will be about right when finished. There are two turns because one would ravel. Turn towards the worker. First, turn one-eighth inch to wrong side of material. Second, turn one-fourth inch. Turn and pinch to hold until basted.
2. Baste. Use one-fourth inch stitches. No. 8 needle is a good size for this work, and basting thread can be used for this temporary stitch. Be sure to wear a thimble on the middle finger of the right hand. Little Alice Allen says she never will learn to use a thimble, but she will if she keeps on trying. The picture (Fig. 12) shows the even basting stitch with needle in position. Baste on the edge of the hem. Begin with a knot, and end with two tiny stitches placed one on top of the other to hold until hemmed. Remember basting is a temporary stitch.
The basting stitch.
3. Hem the edge with the hemming stitch. Look at the pictures (Figs. 13-16) and then follow carefully the directions. Hold the cloth slanting over the fingers of the left hand, with thumb on top (Fig. 13). Begin without a knot. Put the needle up through edge of hem and allow one inch of end of thread to lie under the hem as you pull thread through (Fig. 14). This end will be worked over and held securely. Now you are ready for the stitch. Point the needle which is in your right hand towards the left shoulder. The point of the needle is passed first through the cloth under the edge of the hem, with a tiny stitch which shows on the right side. The needle, at the same time, catches the edge of the basted hem. This makes a tiny slanting stitch on the right side, so: /. The next stitch is taken about one-sixteenth of an inch from the first, in exactly the same way. As the thread carries from one stitch to the next, it makes a slanting line on the wrong, or hem, side but in the opposite direction from the stitch which shows on the right side. It slants like this
The part marked 1 shows on the right side of the cloth; and 2 on the wrong, where the hem is turned (Fig. 15). When the end of hem is reached, fasten with two or three tiny stitches. If the thread breaks, ravel out a few stitches and let the old end of thread lie under the hem. The new thread can then be started as at the beginning by putting needle in the hole of last stitch. There will be two ends under the hem to work over. The picture (Fig. 16) shows how to join a new thread. Find out how many places the hemming stitch can be used. Try it at home on something before next lesson.
When this stitch has been well learned, it will be possible for the Girls' Sewing League to make many things.
TLE-50 Basic Electricity
Electrical wiring in general refers to insulated conductors used to carry electricity, and associated devices. This article describes general aspects of electrical wiring as used to provide power in buildings and structures, commonly referred to as building wiring. This article is intended to describe common features of electrical wiring that should apply worldwide.
Wiring safety codes
Wiring safety codes are intended to protect people and buildings from electrical shock and fire hazards. Regulations may be established by city, county, provincial/state or national legislation, sometimes by adopting in amended form a model code produced by a technical standards-setting organization, or by a national standard electrical code.
Electrical codes arose in the 1880s with the commercial introduction of electrical power. Many conflicting standards existed for the selection of wire sizes and other design rules for electrical installations.
The first electrical codes in the United States originated in New York in 1881 to regulate installations of electric lighting. Since 1897 the U.S. National Fire Protection Association, a private nonprofit association formed by insurance companies, has published the National Electrical Code (NEC). States, counties or cities often include the NEC in their local building codes by reference along with local differences. The NEC is modified every three years. It is a consensus code considering suggestions from interested parties. The proposals are studied by committees of engineers, tradesmen, manufacturer representatives, fire fighters, and other invitees.
Wiring safety codes
Wiring safety codes are intended to protect people and buildings from electrical shock and fire hazards. Regulations may be established by city, county, provincial/state or national legislation, sometimes by adopting in amended form a model code produced by a technical standards-setting organization, or by a national standard electrical code.
Electrical codes arose in the 1880s with the commercial introduction of electrical power. Many conflicting standards existed for the selection of wire sizes and other design rules for electrical installations.
The first electrical codes in the United States originated in New York in 1881 to regulate installations of electric lighting. Since 1897 the U.S. National Fire Protection Association, a private nonprofit association formed by insurance companies, has published the National Electrical Code (NEC). States, counties or cities often include the NEC in their local building codes by reference along with local differences. The NEC is modified every three years. It is a consensus code considering suggestions from interested parties. The proposals are studied by committees of engineers, tradesmen, manufacturer representatives, fire fighters, and other invitees.
TLE-21 Fishery Arts
Fishpond was the code name given to an extension to the British H2S airborne radar system fitted to Royal Air Force (RAF) Avro Lancaster and Handley Page Halifax heavy bombers during World War II. It was designed to give early warning of German night fighters approaching in the hemisphere below the carrying aircraft out to a range of 30 miles (48.2 km).
Fish cage farming is practiced all over the world. By keeping fish in cages, entire communities can share a body of water, while each farmer can tend to their own individual fish farm. Fish cage farming is attractive to many individuals because a large crop can be raised, tended and harvested in a small area. Since the fish are in a concentrated area, problems can be quickly recognized and addressed.
Harvesting
One of the benefits of fish cage farming is the ease of harvesting the fish. Fish may be removed with a hand-held net and processed or transported as they are removed. If the cage is large, nets may be used to move the fish toward one corner, where they may be more easily hand netted.
TLE-70 Metal Works and Welding
** A finished sample of Welding
Metalworking is the process of working with metals to create individual parts, assemblies, or large scale structures. The term covers a wide range of work from large ships and bridges to precise engine parts and delicate jewellery. It therefore includes a correspondingly wide range of skills, processes, and tools.
Metalworking is a science, art, hobby, industry and trade. Its historical roots span cultures, civilizations, and millennia. Metalworking has evolved from the discovery of smelting various ores, producing malleable and ductile metal useful for tools and adornments. Modern metalworking processes, though diverse and specialized, can be categorized as forming, cutting or joining processes. Today's machine shop includes a number of machine tools capable of creating a precise, useful workpiece.
This are the materials and safety tools in Welding
Metalworking is the process of working with metals to create individual parts, assemblies, or large scale structures. The term covers a wide range of work from large ships and bridges to precise engine parts and delicate jewellery. It therefore includes a correspondingly wide range of skills, processes, and tools.
Metalworking is a science, art, hobby, industry and trade. Its historical roots span cultures, civilizations, and millennia. Metalworking has evolved from the discovery of smelting various ores, producing malleable and ductile metal useful for tools and adornments. Modern metalworking processes, though diverse and specialized, can be categorized as forming, cutting or joining processes. Today's machine shop includes a number of machine tools capable of creating a precise, useful workpiece.
This are the materials and safety tools in Welding
TLE-30 Food Processing
Food processing is the set of methods and techniques used to transform raw ingredients into food or to transform food into other forms for consumption by humans or animals either in the home or by the food processing industry. Food processing typically takes clean, harvested crops or butchered animal products and uses these to produce attractive, marketable and often long shelf-life food products. Similar processes are used to produce animal feed.
...This are the products that we done during our laboratories....
...This are the products that we done during our laboratories....
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Foods II- Baking
Ingredients
12 oz plain flour
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp mixed spice
A pinch of salt
4 oz candied peel
4 oz cherries
2 lb dried fruits
4 oz blanched almonds
4 eggs
4 tbsp sherry
Finely grated 1 lemon
8 oz margarine
8 oz sugar
1 tbsp black treacle
Method
Sieve together all the dry ingredients.
Mix the peel, fruit, cherries, chopped almonds and lemon rind.
Whisk the eggs and sherry together.
Beat the margarine, sugar and black treacle until soft.
Add the flour and egg mixtures alternately to the margarine little by little, till it has a thick paste consistency.
Stir in the fruit mixture.
Put into an 8-9 inch tin, lined with greaseproof paper round the sides and at the bottom.
Now, tie a double band of brown paper round the outside of the rim, standing well up above the top of it.
Put in the middle of a hot oven.
Bake for 3 1/4-3 1/2 hours
Keep the gas mark 3 for the first 1 1/2 hours, and then decrease to gas mark 2 for the remainder.
Cool the cake in the tin, then store in an airtight container.
What you will need
•2 3/4 cups (about 650 ml) of warm water
•Some flour (about 8 cups, though it varies). Regular, unbleached white flour works well. Whole wheat flour rises slowly, due to the lack of gluten, but a mix of 1/2 whole wheat and 1/2 white flour gives good results.
•Two packets of dried yeast.
•Three tablespoons (about 45 ml) of sugar or malt extract
•A bit less than a tablespoon (about 10 ml) of salt (optional)
•Shortening--butter, oil, lard, anything that's greasy and edible
•A big bowl
•Two bread loaf pans
•A big horizontal surface--a countertop works well
•Paper towels
•A spoon and a knife
•An oven
•A rack of some sort, or just the top of the stove
•Some butter for later
Procedure
Mix the water and sugar and, if desired, salt in the big bowl. Add the yeast. Go post a couple of messages to K5. When you come back, the yeast should have grown to form a stinky scum on the water.
Add flour and stir. At first, it will look like clumps of flour in liquid. Keep stirring and add more flour. Eventually, it will become a sticky, spongy mass.
Dump some flour liberally on your countertop or other horizontal surface. Remove the sticky mass with your hands and plop it onto the flour. Sprinkle flour over the top.
Now comes the part that puts many people off: kneading. For some, this is too much like work. Yet it's a satisfying kind of work. You can imagine it's the face of somebody you don't like. For each step of kneading, push down on the dough with the heels of your hands and spread it out. Then turn it over, sprinkle with flour, and fold it in half. True hackers will recognize that this uses the power of exponentiation; every iteration multiplies the number of layers by two. Twenty times, for about a million layers, is about right. Stop kneading when it stops sticking when you fold it over.
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